“What has become of fashion today?”
This is one of the key questions fashion theorist, professor and curator Maria Luisa Frisa asked herself when planning the exhibition “Memorabile.Ipermoda” at the MAXXI Museum.
“These are challenging times and exhibitions raise questions and issues that have never been addressed,” Frieza said in an exclusive walkthrough on Monday before unveiling the exhibition’s design at a gala event that evening A lineup of designer looks, accessories and books. and catalog. “The world of fashion has undergone an incredible transformation, with conglomerates bringing finance to the fore in a close game in which clothes mattered but only as the last step, whereas in the past clothes were fashionable center.”
Related articles
Frisa believes that fashion brands incorporate “an increasing number of different elements, including cultural assets, to express themselves and their values in many different ways to ensure increasing relevance and a wider audience.”
Frisa said the exhibition’s title embraces the idea of memory, so heritage and archives are always key for fashion designers, but also the idea of unforgettableness. As a result, the chosen looks “left a dazzling impression and were photographed again and again.”
This also led to a discussion about the concept of images, “Everything can be posted on Instagram now, which also changes the way we take photos and events, [handheld] Consider the equipment. The photos “had to go viral,” prompting brands to “hold fashion shows in exotic locations to stand out and be remembered.”
There is no doubt that Galleria 5 at the Museum of 21st Century Art is a striking building designed by Zaha Hadid, and its first appearance is unforgettable and inspiring. These include Francesco Risso’s floral patchwork dress for Marni’s Spring 2024 collection, as well as a dress worn by “White Lotus” actress Simona Tabasco at last year’s Emmy Awards, and Demna’s Fall 2021-22 couture silk jacquard A trompe l’oeil dress from the Haute Couture collection and a Miu Miu wool sweater paired with an embroidered petticoat with gilded elements from the Fall 2023 collection.
Among them, the same platform also exhibited a silk georgette dress designed by Alessandro Michele for Valentino; a trompe l’oeil dress designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior; Armani Private A python leather jacket embellished with crystals and metallic velvet was paired with polka dot gauze trousers, and a fiberglass floral and maxi skirt by Jonathan Anderson for Loewe.
“I like to think of fashion as sarabande, the mixing of street looks isn’t planned, is it? You just see people wearing what they want to wear, and the same goes for these combinations,” Friesa said.
The installation is a project for Supervoid, and Frisa smiles as she enjoys working with “architects who have never worked with fashion.” I like to use my outside eye to find unexpected solutions. “
Beneath the museum’s slightly sloping ceiling and curved walls, the clothes stand out on the floors and walls, with a liquid and glossy appearance reminiscent of latex, with a “cosmetic palette” ranging from bronze to pink. “I want to mention one of the obsessions people have today, makeup,” she said.
“I’m very interested in today’s contemporary fashion, exploring the performative relationship between body and clothing in a conceptual way,” she continues.
Frisa is proud to finally present garments that have never been shown in Italy, including the Paris and New York skyline down jackets designed by Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton.
She has also included menswear designs, such as Craig Green’s spring 2018 wood frame with jersey draping, tank top and denim trousers, or Rick Owens’ fall 2017 collection of cotton twill jumpsuits and jersey draping. down jacket.
She also added hack experiments, like a creative swap at Versace called Fendace with Gucci and Balenciaga; artistic collaborations, like Raf Simons’ collaboration with Sterling Ruby for Dior, Intarsia gown designed by Pierpaolo Piccioli and Alessandro Teoldi for Valentino Haute Couture Bulgari’s large, bejeweled bronze and brass tortoise, designed by Francesco Vezzoli; Iris Van Herpen’s futuristic, otherworldly dresses, and pieces by young designers, including Marco Rambaldi’s delicate crocheted dress . Another unforgettable gown was a couture tulle dress by Viktor and Rolf.
Accessories include JW Anderson’s bird clutch and Bottega Veneta’s stunning leather intrecciato bag that looks like a ceramic vase, to Pharrell Williams’ pixelated camo luggage for Louis Vuitton, as well as Ferragamo’s gold sandals and Jacquemus’ mini bags. .
“Exhibitions are always a curator’s choice, always incomplete,” Frieza said when asked about the difficulty of choosing a look.
“The narrative of fashion is key, and to host such a brand in such a prestigious location, we feel the quality of this exhibition is very high,” said Carlo Capasa, president of the Italian Fashion Chamber, praising Frisa’s experience and Skill. “It’s all very modern and future-focused, so MAXXI is a perfect fit. Fashion creates dreams, it doesn’t just fulfill a need, it has to be creative and convey emotion, like these designs.”
Capassa said the exhibition “photographs a dynamic system that blends tradition and innovation. Creativity in its many forms is at the heart of the pulse of fashion, highlighting the fundamental contribution of Italian fashion to the entire system, thanks to the Italian Made by Brands, Creative Directors, Entrepreneurs and Skilled Craftsmen.”
Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bulgari, said, “Unforgettable things are created to produce timeless beauty that transcends simple memories.”
“We believe that fashion, like jewelry, is an art and that fashion is honored by jewelry, just as jewelry is the main accessory of fashion,” Babin said while praising the quality of the designers participating in the exhibition. “Such a rich and many of the biggest names in fashion.”
Fashion leads trends, he continued, “and jewelry incorporates these trends, constantly enriching its art. We have more continuity, that is our eternity,” he said, referring to the Diva Serpenti bracelet on display.
“But on the other hand, we can’t ignore that the world is constantly evolving. We can’t ignore our customers, so we always have to think about our customers’ looks. We are not a fashion brand, but obviously we are often recognized by people who buy couture and dress [dress] and shopping for fashion. So we take some elements from fashion [that] Allowing us to evolve our icons without compromising their DNA. So our game is very challenging because we have to keep up with the times and not get caught up in eternal, constant fashion trends. ”
The Rome-based jeweler has been supporting and promoting young artists through its museums since 2018 and has fostered many new talents on the international stage as part of the MAXXI Bulgari Prize.
“Memorabile.Ipermoda” runs from Wednesday to March 23.
